Spiritual Intelligence

Perhaps somewhere lodged in infinity, somewhere waiting for our taking is a possibility that social intelligence will grow into spiritual intelligence.

An ode to the spirit, an awakeining to existence, realization that we are the wave and we are the ocean

West Sikkim: Khecheopalri Adventures

North Sikkim was without a doubt one of the most stunning places I’ve ever been to. But after a ‘packaged tour’ in a run-down Mahindra Maxx , checking every dog-eared milestone on a well-rehearsed itinerary, my cousin and I were left with the intense urge to lose ourselves in some untraversed path in the forest hills of West Sikkim- our next broad destination. After wasting time pouring over maps trying to determine our least touristy prospects, we decided to seek some expert advice and turned to Pranay, the unassuming owner of Alfa lodge*, our home in Gangtok. To put it mildly, we got well acquainted with this young trekking and biking enthusiast during our stay at the hotel, and couldn’t think of anyone better to point us in the right direction.

Without a second’s hesitation and completely ignoring the great expectations we had from him, he suggests Khecheopalri Lake. I cringe with all the politeness I could summon, “Really? But isn’t it a day-visit hotspot for tourists?” He smiles, writes down a name and phone number, and reassure us, “Well yes, but not many choose to stay here. Call this number when you reach; Pala is the village headman, and he’ll put you up in his house on the hill top. Its only a half hour trek from the lake.”

Okay, so it wasn’t a mystery destination with unpaved streets waiting to take on my name, but on the upside, our homestay wasn’t in a travel guide that sold a million copies either. Good enough for me.

The next day, we boarded a service taxi at 1 p.m. from Gangtok’s Pelling stand. We were lucky to have found one with a driver from Khecheopalri, thus sparing us a night in Pelling, which is otherwise the last stop. By the time we reach it is almost 6.30 p.m., which essentially means its pitch dark and most people are mid-way through their dinners. The taxi stopped at the mouth of a narrow trail that winds steeply for 3 km through the forest before meeting the village on the ridge.

Anyway, our co-passengers (locals) were by now a bit concerned about us trekking in the dark. They ensured we had flashlights, and even insisted we call our homestay and let them know we were coming. Dipen (Pala’s son-in-law), who answered the phone, immediately offered to meet us down at the road, but we convince him with great difficulty not to. I must say, while I was moved by all the concern, the underestimation wasn’t doing anything for my morale. We finally said our goodbyes and started to hoof it. Within minutes of embarking on the chest heaving climb with our backpacks on, I began to realize what all the fuss was about. Half-way through, when there were no more lunges left in me, I heard Dipen’s heaven-sent voice calling out through the thick forest. He had come to fetch us anyway, along with his 17 year old nephew Bhaichung, who to my shameless relief offered to take the weight off my shoulders for the rest of the way. I must however confess that I owe this to my deplorable fitness levels and a backpack loaded with vanity. My cousin on the other hand was the irritating mountain goat whose backside disappeared before me seconds into the climb.

HOMESTAY AT PALA’S
On reaching the Homestay, we were shown to our very basic but pleasant rooms that were run by Pala’s daughter Chumben and her husband Dipen, both in their early 30’s. We quickly ditched the bags and stepped out to take in our dimly lit surroundings. The other guests were huddled around the table outside, enjoying a candle-lit dinner. I found my way to the common washroom close by to freshen up, by which time our hostess was ready with a warm mouth-watering noodle soup meal and some ‘Chhaang’(local beer made of rice or millet), all of which we slurped clean with zest in no time.

Pala & Chumben's homes from a distance

Chumben's homestay, where we stayed

It was only in the morning that we were face to face with the awe-inspiring beauty of where we’d landed up. Around this divine mountain ridge, beautiful valleys flowed into mist-filled abysses, and you could see the sun at its sober best, gently stroking the canopies on the other side. In such picturesque setting, this tiny Lepcha village went about its daily life, at its own rhythmic pace. Here, time was in no rush.

There were five to six other travelers staying between Pala’s homestay and Chumben’s, a cluster of 3 wooden log cabins spread over half an acre. We sat together for meals, sharing our stories over momos, yummy millet rotis, rice, sandwiches, and more Chhaang. Pala himself is an interesting 85 year old man with a number of entertaining tales up his sleeve. He claimed to have been a cook to the Dalai Lama for 30 years (this is not a verified fact). He is however in the midst of building a school for the village kids, who currently have to trek more than an hour everyday to their school near the lake. Many kind-hearted guests have donated to his cause, and even offered to teach the children.

Around the village

If you were to follow the trail beyond Pala’s house, you will pass a monastery and also find two to three other homestays with spectacular valley views. We bumped into a few backpackers who had been staying in the village for weeks, and even months.

EXPLORING AROUND

The Lake

The primary attraction is the Khecheopalri Lake itself. The locals also refer to it as Sho Dzo Sho, which means ‘Oh lady, sit here’. After a delicious breakfast in the morning, we trekked down to this ‘wishing lake’, which is of great religious significance for Buddhists and Hindus alike, and is part of the Buddhist pilgrimage circuit. The trail that felt like a laborious ordeal only the night before presented a completely different picture during the day. The forest beamed with life in the rain, and we got the first glimpse of the lake as we reach half way down. When viewed from a higher vantage point, the lake looks like footprint, and consequently has several folklores surrounding it; the most popular one being that the lake is goddess Tara’s footprint. Information on some of the other such legends can be found here.

Glimpse of the lake on our way down

Prayer wheels along the jetty

On reaching down, a 10 minute walk from the main road takes you to a jetty lined with prayer wheels, which leads up to the lake from where pilgrims offer their prayers. Another incredible aspect is that in spite of being enclosed by lush green forest hills, you will never see a single leaf floating on the surface of the lake (its true). Legend has it that the birds immediately swoop in to pick them up, ensuring that the lake remains pure and blemish free. Visitors regularly feed biscuits to the numerous fish in the lake who scram to the surface in large numbers, much to everyone’s excitement. There is also a stupa and small meditation room nearby.

Trekking to the caves

A chorten/stupa along the way

During our stay at Pala’s, we trekked to two meditation caves hidden away in the mountains. The initial fifteen minutes is a leisurely walk through scenic village houses and farms, but before you know it the forest closes in on you, the trail turns steep and narrow, and your ‘walk’ turns into slow-mo roller-coaster adventure on foot. There are many beautiful chortens built on clearings along the way. But beware -if you are travelling here in the month of May (like us), then leeches will be a regular feature, given the rain. My advice – don’t fight them, don’t pull at them, and don’t jump around hoping they’ll let go. Instead, take it easy, let them be, carry some salt to sprinkle on, rub some salt on your legs if you like, and most importantly don’t let them ruin this amazing experience for you.

The first of the two caves we visited was about an hour long trek from our homestay. It was an inviting 12 feet high triangular opening in the mountain rock, with deeper layers and crevices extending beyond. Rows of tiny idols were laid out up front, along with incense sticks and other prayer paraphernalia.

We spent a long time here. When we weren’t reflecting on our lives in silence, we were trying to squeeze ourselves into every permitting crevice.

Cave no. 2 took us much longer (2 ½ hours) and was a more arduous trek to top of the Khecheopalri hill at close to 8000 feet. It opened up breathtaking views of the hills and villages below and also that of Mount Pandim and other peaks. The distinct footprint like shape of the Khecheopalri Lake is best seen from here.

View of the footprint shaped Khecheopalri Lake

Inside the cave, the mesmerizing fragrance of incense was calming and meditative. A stupa stood guard outside, wrapped in old prayer flags. There was a rest house (wooden cabin) close by, apparently used by monks who come here to meditate or by weary travelers deciding to spend the night on the hill top.

DETAILS OF STAY

Pala’s Homestay
Contact Persons: Dipen, Chumben and Pala
Mobile no (Chumben): +91 9593976635
Rates: 300 per person (inclusive of food)

You could also walk beyond Pala’s house to find 2-3 other equally fabulous homestays

Other options of stay near the Lake:
Trekker’s Hut Guest House: +91 9733076995

Additional Info:
*Alfa Lodge, M G Road, Gangtok
Pranay Chetteri: +91 9832027658

TRAVELLING TO

34 km from Khecheopalri is Pelling, which is most often the final destination for service taxis arriving from the various central taxi stands of Sikkim. Gangtok (Rs 160, six hours), Jorthang (Rs. 80, four hours), Geyzing (Rs 60, two hours). If you are coming directly from New Jalpaiguri station (NJP), it is advisable to get to Siliguri (8km) first and from there take a service taxi (Rs. 200 or more, 6-7 hours). From Darjeeling (West Bengal) you can reach Pelling via Jorethang (6-8 Hours). Book tickets a day in advance or simply inform your hotel/homestay hosts about your plans.

From Pelling, you will have to jump into one of the cabs taking tourists for day tours that include Khecheopalri .
However, if you are one of those that the universe favours, there are exceptions. You may just find cabs that take you all the way to Khecheopalri (this happens when the driver is from here).
Trek – There is a 4-5 hour trekking trail to Yuksom from Khecheopalri

TRAVELLING FROM

At 6.30 a.m. taxis leave from near the lake to Geyzing via Pelling (Rs 60, approximately 2½ hours). Again, book your seats the day before you are scheduled to leave. Depending on your next destination you can take connecting cabs from Pelling or Geyzing.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: February to mid-May. If you prefer winter months Oct – Dec is also a good time.

Post on Yuksom

Here is a post i contributed for a friend’s travel blog tripp.in, carrying information on my homestay in Yuksom and the various charming sites around this spiritual mountain town in West Sikkim.

The main character is what you call the ‘mind’…

‘Waking Life’ is of course a popular cult film, and like me, those my age would have seen it while in college. But somehow, I find myself referring it to people even now. Each act in the movie is introspective, illuminating and well, familiar, covering topics ranging from reality, free will, existentialism, lucid dreaming to the nature of consciousness among other things. I pulled out a transcript of one of my favorite monologues in the film – that of the African-american writer Aklilu Gebrewold. Enjoy! It goes something like this:

The main character is what you might call ‘the mind’…
It’s mastery, it’s capacity to represent.
Throughout history, attempts have been made
to contain those experiences which happen at the edge of the limit…
where the mind is vulnerable.
But I think we are in a very significant moment in history.
Those moments, those what you might call liminal,
limit, frontier, edge zone experiences…
are actually now becoming the norm.
These multiplicities and distinctions and differences…
that have given great difficulty to the old mind…
are actually entering into their very essence,
tasting and feeling their uniqueness.
One might make a breakthrough to that common something…
that holds them together.
And so the main character is, to this new mind,
a greater, greater mind…
A mind that is yet to be.
And obviously when we enter into that mode,
we can see a radical subjectivity,
radical attunement to individuality, uniqueness to that which the mind is,
opens itself to a vast objectivity.
So the story is the story of the cosmos now…
the moment is not just a passing, empty nothing
yet – and this is in the way in which these secret passages happen- it’s empty with such fullness…
that the great moment, the great life of the universe…
is pulsating in it.
And each one, each object, each place, each act…
Leaves a mark.
And that story is singular.
But, in fact, it’s story after story.

nature babies

a href=”http://spacemol.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/dsc02155.jpg”>

Apologies to thee

I have been a ‘bad mother’ to my blog.
There are times I hear its faint cry for attention amongst all the mind-noise, but I ignore it.
When I do sometimes walk through the walls to pay a visit, I find myself again.
Here, the mind rests, motionless in silence – even if it’s only for a bit, even if its only for now.

Be kind. No Grind. Rewind.

Monday blues after a wonderful weekend.

I must still be on the beach for these words are swimming before my eyes. I’m transfixed by the moon, so bright, just like these ceiling lights keeping me upright.
As time slips away, there is born yet another dream – of a sun who sent secret messages through the mystical pine tree. What were they, these messages?
I try to hear the magnificent ocean again, but the sounds are drowned by those of fingertips bouncing off keypads, the printer rattling on my right, that guy on the phone, girls whispering, the nervous laughter in my mind…

…and so begins the grind.